Future-Proof Your Shelfie: The Hottest Skincare Ingredients of 2024+

As someone who has been formulating skincare products for 14 years, I have used an array of ingredients in my creations.

While many ingredients have received attention and praise in the skincare industry, I have always relied on certain ingredients that have consistently delivered impressive results for various products, such as cleansers, exfoliants, serums, and moisturizers.

Although ingredients like niacinamide, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and squalene are popular, I want to draw attention to some lesser-known but powerful ingredients that have proven to deliver real, visible results.

These ingredients have been researched, studied by dermatologists and scientists, and tested in real-world conditions by thousands of individuals who have benefited from them in my formulas.

Bakuchiol: Often pronounced “buh-koo-chee-owl,” this plant-based powerhouse offers a gentler alternative to retinol, thanks to it’s antioxidant-rich properties, ideal for those with sensitive skin.

The form of bakuchiol I incorporate in products I’ve formulated is from a brand called Sytenol.

A study conducted by dermatologists in Britain demonstrated that 0.5% Bakuchiol, compared to 0.5% Retinol, delivered similar improvements in reducing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation but with better skin tolerance.

Considered low-risk for pregnancy due to its lack of Vitamin A, bakuchiol's chemical structure is actually a phenol derived from cold-pressed seeds.

Polyglutamic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is celebrated for its moisture-retention capabilities, but polyglutamic acid (PGA) elevates this to a new level.

Interestingly, PGA is derived from natto, the fermented soybeans recently gaining viral popularity on TikTok for being a hydration multiplier.

Research indicates that PGA possesses inherent moisturizing properties. In one of the formulas I developed, PGA's soft, film-like texture provided a noticeable mini-face lift in our visual assessments.

Capable of holding up to 4,000 times its weight in water (compared to hyaluronic acid, which holds 1000x), this ingredient is ideal for creating fast-absorbing, deeply hydrating skincare products that leave the skin looking exceptionally dewy and plump.

Polyhydroxy Acids (AKA PHAs, Gluconolactone, Lactobionic Acid): PHAs are a blessing for those with sensitive skin as they offer delicate exfoliation and moisture retention.

Their larger molecules ensure a gradual and consistent absorption into the skin, thereby minimizing the possibility of irritation.

PHAs also maintain the skin's ideal pH, promoting smooth texture and complexion without the unpleasant sensation often associated with other acids.

A study focused on the use of PHA in photoaging skin states, “A new generation of AHAs, called polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), was discovered that provide similar effects as AHAs but do not cause the sensory irritation responses that can limit the use of classical AHAs.”

Matrixyl Synthe'6 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38): Matrixyl is a peptide renowned for stimulating skin repair and boosting collagen synthesis, with robust research supporting its effectiveness in reducing wrinkles and fine lines.

In my formulations, Matrixyl has consistently delivered on its promise of rejuvenating and youth-enhancing effects. It increases the production of collagen types I, III, and IV, as well as fibronectin, hyaluronic acid, and laminin 5—six crucial components of healthy skin.

This makes it particularly effective in targeting deep wrinkles and consistently achieves firmer skin results in various products.

Over the past six years, I've incorporated Matrixyl into numerous skincare formulas, including neck, face, and eye creams. Clinical studies confirm that noticeable improvements are typically seen within 8 weeks.

It also serves as an excellent preventative treatment for premature aging, helping maintain collagen levels and prevent their decline as the skin ages.

Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8): Argireline is celebrated for its rapid action on facial wrinkles by inhibiting neurotransmitter release and easing facial tension.

It is particularly effective on expression lines, especially around the eyes and across the forehead.

This potent active ingredient begins to reduce wrinkles within just 28 days. In a specialized formula I developed for crow's feet, users reported visible results in as few as 5 days, highlighting its swift and effective performance.

Vitamin C (Stable Forms): I learned the hard way about the pitfalls of unstable vitamin C in skincare formulas, which can lead to serious allergic reactions.

In 2017, while evaluating Vitamin C serums for a new booster serum project, one product unexpectedly caused severe facial swelling—reminiscent of Puff the Marshmallow Man.

Initially, I suspected an allergy to dust, but when the reaction occurred again, I realized the culprit was the unstable vitamin C in the serum.

This personal ordeal prompted a shift in my approach: I now prefer to use more stable forms of vitamin C, such as 3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid combined with the oil-soluble Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.

These variants maintain their stability longer on the shelf and penetrate the skin more effectively.

Ferulic Acid: When paired with vitamin C, this potent antioxidant significantly boosts the skin-brightening and anti-aging effects. Numerous studies, like this one and this one, validate the combination of ferulic acid and vitamin C as crucial in protecting the skin from long-term sun damage, which can lead to skin cancer.

These studies specifically highlight their efficacy as protectants against UV radiation, underscoring their importance in daily skincare routines for enhanced defense against environmental aggressors.

On the Horizon:

These are ingredients that I’ve researched to the point of obsession but have not yet had the chance to use in my formulations.

Copper Peptide GHK-Cu: Copper peptides are positively charged compounds that efficiently bind to negatively charged areas on the skin, such as damaged tissue or sites of inflammation.

This property makes them highly effective in skin regeneration for anti-aging purposes and healing, particularly in scar treatments.

However, the true effectiveness of copper peptides hinges not only on the peptides themselves but also perfecting the formula which cannot be mixed with vitamin C, antioxidants.

Hypochlorous Acid: It might smell like pool water, but hypochlorous acid (Cl2(g) + H2O(l) → HClO(aq) + HCl) is far more than that—it's a boon for managing eczema, psoriasis, and contact dermatitis.

This gentle acid is also a potent oxidant, making it an ideal treatment for various skin conditions, including eczema and acne. Its effectiveness is supported by emerging research.

Emerging studies highlight its potential to regulate inflammatory pathways in the skin and promote re-epithelialization, which helps heal wounds by creating new skin barriers.

Additionally, hypochlorous acid is recognized by the National Eczema Association and approved by the FDA for treatment, attesting to its safety and efficacy.

Epimedium (Horny Goat Weed): Despite sounding like the latest gossip at the farm, Horny Goat Weed has paved the way for a groundbreaking new acne-fighting active called Icariin.

This potent ingredient has been shown to reduce C. acnes, the primary bacteria responsible for acne, by up to 2400 times. In recent formulations featuring this extract, users have reported significant improvements in clearing hormonal acne.

“Also significantly diminished the activity of PLA2 and COX-2 – two critical modulators in the expansion of inflammatory effects – likely resulting in a soothing sensation”

While the FDA may be slow to recognize alternative acne treatments, Horny Goat Weed offers a gentler and, in some cases, more effective alternative to traditional harsh treatments like benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid due to its anti-bacterial properties.

Beyond the world of TikTok famous ingredients, it's clear that the world of skincare is vast and rich with potent, lesser-known ingredients.

These ingredients are my staples for delivering real results.

So here’s to finding beauty in the unexpected, keeping an open and curious spirit when its comes to delivering on lasting results.